Facing and Understitching . . .

 

 

 I stitched the seam allowance to the lining using a line of topstitching very close to edge.

 

I clipped the seam allowance making sure not to clip into the seams or the inside edge of the twill tape.   Then the neckline is pressed with the seam allowance to the lining side.

I stitched twill tape to the seam allowance.  This gives the neckline more stability and prevents it from stretching out.

For the facing, I have backed it with the same cotton as the body and hand overcast all the edges to secure the layers together.  The facing is pinned to the body and stitched, making sure to increase the SPI (stitches per inch) at the sweet heart at center front.  After this is stitched, I pinned twill tape to the neckline.